Running a Card Buylist in Your Shop – How to Set Buy Prices and Rules for Pokémon and Other TCGs
A good buylist comes down to fixed, written rules: which price you start from, what percentage you pay, how you grade condition and how you record the deal. That way every employee prices the same way, and the customer knows why they’re getting the number they get.
What to base your Pokémon card buy prices on
Buying Pokémon, Magic or One Piece cards always starts with the market price – and that means what cards actually sell for, not what they’re listed at. Most shops use TCGplayer’s “Market Price” or the Cardmarket trend or 30-day average. Pick one source as your baseline and stick with it. If you price off the trend one day and off the lowest listing the next, customers will notice fast.
Before you quote a number, make sure you’re looking at the price of the same card: same number, set, language and version (holo, reverse, stamp, 1st Edition). Getting the version wrong is the most expensive buylist mistake – in either direction. Also note the date and price source, so when a customer asks, you can show where the number came from.
From that price you take your percentage. What it should be depends on your business model – there’s no single “right” number. What matters is that it’s thought through, written down and applied consistently.
How to set your buylist percentage – the factors
Your percentage of market price is the result of several things. Consider:
- Liquidity. A card you’ll sell within a week (popular, playable, from a current set) justifies a higher percentage. A card that will sit for six months ties up cash – you pay less.
- Price risk. Cards from new sets can drop quickly after release; cards caught up in hype, a reprint announcement or a ban can swing hard. More risk means a lower percentage.
- Selling costs. Platform fees, shipping, sleeves and toploaders, staff time to list and pack. Check the current fee schedules of the marketplaces you sell on and factor them in.
- Cash or store credit. Many shops offer more in store credit than in cash. Credit stays in the store and turns into a sale of your own stock at your margin.
- Inventory. If you already have ten copies of a card, you need the next one less. You can temporarily lower the percentage or pass on it entirely.
A good practice is a few tiers – e.g. one percentage for “hot” cards, another for regular singles and a flat bulk rate. Post your rules at the counter or on your website – transparency builds trust.
Card condition on the buylist
Market prices usually refer to Near Mint. A card with scratches or a bent corner is worth less – both when you buy it and when you sell it. Decide how you adjust the price for LP, MP, HP and DMG, and always grade under the same conditions: good light, card out of the sleeve, checked at an angle, front and back.
Show the customer what you see – a scratch on the holo, whitening on the back edges. Condition disputes are the most common source of friction at the buy counter. The grades explained: card condition NM, LP, MP, HP and DMG.
High-end cards, singles and bulk – three different processes
| Type | How you price it | What to watch for |
|---|---|---|
| High-end cards | one by one, exact version and condition, several price sources | fakes, look-alike versions, temporary price spikes |
| Regular singles | one by one, using your percentage table | liquidity – not every card sells quickly |
| Bulk | in bulk: per card or per box | don’t price it card by card – not worth the time |
For high-end cards, check the price in more than one place and look at sales history. A sudden trend spike after a few odd sales shouldn’t become your buy price. For whole collections, follow the workflow in how to value a card collection.
Checking authenticity
Buying a fake is a straight loss – you can’t sell it honestly. For anything worth more than pocket change:
- compare the card to a known genuine copy from the same set: colors, fonts, shine, thickness, back,
- look at it under a loupe – print rosette pattern, text sharpness, edges,
- for graded cards, look up the cert number in the grading company’s database and inspect the slab,
- when in doubt – don’t buy, or ask for time to verify.
Pokémon specifics: how to spot a fake Pokémon card. The general rule: better to turn down one buy than take in a fake. Decline calmly and matter-of-factly – often the customer has no idea the card is fake.
Keeping records of buylist transactions
Record every buy: date, seller details, list of cards (set, number, version, condition, quantity), price per line and total, payment method. Keep seller information only to the extent and for as long as your local rules require. A list like this helps the customer, helps you with your books and helps if there’s ever a dispute.
Buying goods from private individuals as a business may come with documentation requirements, and the tax treatment depends on where you are and how your business is set up. Check local rules and work out your paperwork and record keeping with your accountant. Don’t guess – it catches up with you in an audit.
A tool that does the math helps. In RipWorth you set your buy and sell percentages, every card shows “We buy for” and “Shop price,” and the cards from one transaction go into a session with a total that you can export to CSV and attach to your records.
Frequently asked questions
What percentage of market price do shops pay on a buylist?
There’s no single rate. It depends on how fast the card sells, the risk of price changes, your selling costs and whether you pay cash or store credit. What matters is that your rules are written down and consistent.
Why is store credit higher than cash?
Because the money stays in the store and comes back as a sale of your own stock at your margin. That’s why many shops offer more in credit than in cash for the same cards.
How do I document buying cards from a private seller?
Keep a written record with the list of cards and the price. Formal and tax requirements depend on your location and business setup – check local rules and talk to your accountant.
Should I buy bulk cards?
Yes, if you have a way to move them – but in bulk: per card or per box. Pricing bulk one card at a time takes more time than it’s worth.
See also
Game and service names are trademarks of their respective owners. This guide is for information only; card prices change daily.