PSA, CGC and BGS Card Grading – Is It Worth It and How to Do the Math

Mateusz Ryś · October 28, 2026 · about 7 min read

Grading means an independent company assesses a card’s condition and seals it in a plastic case (a slab) with a grade on a 1–10 scale. Is it worth it? Only when the graded price minus every cost is clearly higher than the raw price – after accounting for the risk that the grade comes back lower than you hoped.

PSA, CGC and BGS grading – what it is

The best-known grading companies in the card market are:

PSA (Professional Sports Authenticator) – the most popular, especially for Pokémon and sports cards. Cards in PSA slabs often sell for the most at the same grade.
CGC – well known for comics and TCG cards, among others; it uses separate labels for its top grades.
BGS (Beckett) – known for subgrades in four categories and a special designation for cards that are perfect in each of them.

Each company grades the card, gives it a certification number and seals it in a slab. You can look the number up in that company’s database, which makes fraud harder and selling easier. Prices for the same grade differ between companies, so always compare a PSA 10 with a PSA 10, not with a CGC 10.

What does a slab give you beyond the grade? First, authentication – a company won’t give a numeric grade to a card it considers fake. Second, protection – a slabbed card is safe from bends, dust and moisture. Third, easier remote sales – a buyer across the country doesn’t have to take your word on condition, because there’s an independent grade. For cheap cards these benefits usually don’t outweigh the costs, but for expensive ones they can matter more than the price difference itself.

The 1–10 scale and what graders look at

Grades run from 1 (a heavily damaged card) to 10 (the top grade, e.g. Gem Mint at PSA). Each company has its own names for the grades and its own rules on half grades – the details are on their websites.

Graders look at four areas:

Centering – whether the border is even on every side, front and back.
Corners – sharp, with no whitening or rounding.
Edges – no white specks or wear.
Surface – no scratches, dents, fingerprints or print defects.

A Near Mint card (more on conditions: NM, LP, MP, HP, DMG) won’t necessarily get a 10. The most common reason for a “drop” is centering – a card can look brand new and still have a border that’s clearly thicker on one side. The grading companies publish their exact centering limits for each grade and can change them.

Is grading worth it? Simple math

Before you send a card, work it out in four steps:

The raw price in NM – from TCGplayer or Cardmarket.
Graded prices – separately for a 10, 9 and 8 (eBay sold listings, PriceCharting).
Costs – the grading fee from the company’s current price list, insured shipping both ways, any group submitter fee, possible customs or import charges if cards cross borders, and selling fees.
Risk – be honest about your odds of a 10 versus a 9 or 8.

Grading makes sense when, even one grade lower than you’re hoping for, the card is worth more after costs than it is raw. If it only pays off at a 10, it’s a bet, not an investment.

Situation	Usually…
Cheap card, small gap between raw and a 10	not worth it – costs eat the profit
Expensive card, perfect centering, big premium at 9 and 10	worth considering
Card with visible whitening or a scratch	probably not worth it – the grade will be low
A card you want to keep in your collection for years	a slab protects it, even if the profit is small
Expensive vintage card, doubts about authenticity	grading confirms it’s real and makes it easier to sell

It also helps to check the population report – how many copies of the card already have a 10. When there are a lot of them, the premium for a 10 tends to be smaller.

How to submit cards for grading

You usually have two routes:

Directly – you create an account with the grading company, fill out a submission and ship your cards to the address they give you. Check which submission options and service levels are currently available – they change, so go by the up-to-date information on the company’s website.
Through a group submitter – stores and companies collect cards from many people and send them in one package. Shipping costs are spread across many customers, but there’s a submitter fee and usually a longer wait. Choose established submitters with good reviews.

Either way: photograph your cards before shipping, pack them in sleeves and semi-rigid holders, insure the packages, and if your cards cross borders, check customs and import charges for the return trip. We don’t list fees as amounts because price lists and turnaround times change often – check them directly with the company or submitter.

Which cards to pick for grading

Inspect the card under a loupe and in strong light, from every side.
Measure the centering – compare the border width left versus right and top versus bottom, front and back.
Rule out cards with any corner whitening or creases.
Pick cards where the gap between a 9 and a 10, and between raw and a 9, is large.

RipWorth has a “Should I grade?” calculator: it measures centering from the photo, estimates your odds of a PSA 9 or 10 and works out profit after fees. It’s a good first filter when you have a stack of cards – for an expensive card, make the final call after looking at it up close. We cover version and market prices in how much is my Pokémon card worth.

Frequently asked questions

How much does PSA grading cost?

It depends on the service level, the card’s declared value and the current price list, which changes. Check it on the PSA website or with a group submitter – and add shipping, insurance and any customs charges on top.

Will a card straight from a pack get a PSA 10?

Not always. Even a fresh card can have poor centering, scratches or factory print defects. That’s why it’s worth inspecting it carefully before you send it.

PSA, CGC or BGS – which company should I choose?

For Pokémon cards, PSA is the most common choice because its slabs are the most recognized in the market. CGC and BGS have their buyers too – compare sold prices for cards at the grade you expect.

Can I submit cards to PSA myself?

Yes – directly to the grading company, or through a group submitter who collects cards from many people. Check the current terms, turnaround times and, if your cards cross borders, customs rules.